hayward blue essence troubleshooting hayward blue essence troubleshooting

Next, check continuity from lead to lead. Flush out the housing to clear debris, then refill with water. Reprime the pump again, open water valves and test. Any idea how to fix this? HI, that is usually a weak motor capacitor, which is a battery used to help the motor get up to 3450 RPM quickly. My Hayward mother is a 1.5 hp. My Hayward h250 propane heater keeps blowing fc1 and fc2 fuses immediately after plugging in. "@type": "ImageObject",
It could also be due to the air intake, or the filter pressure, Water around the base, check the motor bolts or seal plate clamp for tightness on the seal plate o-ring, and check drain plugs for tightness, but most likely its coming from around the outlet pipe, and dripping down to the base, or from the shaft seal, which leaks directly mid bottom, where motor connects. Likewise, check if the motor is wired correctly for the available field supply voltage. Check the wiring. Many valve actuators have a small toggle switch that can be used to activate the valve motor, to turn the valve, it may have gotten switched accidentally and is closing off Spa Jets (when it should be closing off pool returns). I have perhaps a really basic question I just cannot get one side of my salt cell to seal with the union. Using a circuit tester, I determined that the timer and the inline switch has power. I have been able to spin the motor shaft. I completely back washed and clean the system two times making sure the filter was put together properly and there were no holes in either the manifold or the filter grids. Check the wiring on the hi/lo switch, and follow it closely (trace it) to be sure all ends are connected, not corroded, or covered in insects or debris. Remove C/B Assy. It overheated very badly, even burning the hayward sticker off the pump itself maybe a month ago. Find answers to your questions about all Manually spinning the shaft can break the rust bonds. After trying every chemical under the sun and replacing the sand, I pulled the trigger and started from scratch. Slo puedes comparar 4 propiedades, cualquier nueva propiedad aadida reemplazar a la primera de la comparacin. My salt was tested today at 3000 and everything else was perfect. anyway I digress. If so, put the meter on the terminals where to cord connects inside the motor and see if there is power there. However, many inground pools do not run the pump 24/7, but operate it from 12-18 hrs daily, depending on the need, and the ability of the filtration system and sanitation efforts, etc Some small systems do need to run 24/7, but a properly sized system has a timeclock, to set it to run for around 12 hours per day (less during cool periods, more during hot spells)>. I have great circulation, but I the problem is after the pump runs for around a half hour on the filter setting it barely has any force coming out of the jet. You could also use a Hayward 24 sand filter, item E3324. Hello, You will get much more visibility by. Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. After running almost 24 hours the pressure went upto 30 which is the maxium number on our filter gauge and the water circulation stopped. Then, take a look at the capacitor, located at 9 oclock. I opened the back and everything looks fine, Hi Matthew, the pump capacitor is the first suspect, it may be weak and needs replacement. "@type": "ImageObject",
Slide your main switch to the AUTO position. The pool is only 15 months old and I have not had any problems since getting it installed May 2017, other than a small water leak coming from the non suction side of the pump. Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. Replace with the exact same MFD number printed on the capacitor. Not sure whats wrong. No need to look for a solution after the impeller, its always before, on the suction side. The Intermatic T106M timeclock is the standard outdoor timeclock, then you can set it to run 12 hrs daily +/-, or as needed. Hi Clara click doesnt sound like a motor runnning, perhaps you are hearing a relay click, but if the motor itself is not turning over there could be a multitude of reasons why, but in most of these cases, the problem lies where the power dies. Or very high mineral content (very hard water), or oily substances. I removed it from the pump housing to troubleshoot it was pumping weakly before stopping. If no power at motor, check connections for tightness, inspect wire and conduit for damage. One thing you can attempt is a superglue repair, which I have done successfully on many multiport valves, but not on a pump body. I am very sure the water comes from underneath, not from plumbing fitting threads. Use Teflon pool lube on the pump lid o-ring, reapply every 4 months. Hi Jamie, definitely want to use 100 lbs of Pool Filter Sand, unless you are using a sand replacement like Zeosand or FilterGlass. "caption": "In The Swim Blog"
Increased flow this year may be from the new sand, and higher flow makes it easier for air leaks to appear. Additional causes for low water flow in your pump are debris build-up or dirty equipment. I HAVE THE HEATER Hayward Universal H-Series H250 propane heater connected with the plumbing and electrical. Hola tengo una caldera Hayward H400 PED2 durante el intento de encendido no enciende m caldera despus de 5 intentos me pone lF en la pantalla. If the flow is normal however, it could be a bad flow switch or pressure switch. likely not a fan or impeller problem, because at 3500 RPM (or less), it would wear down anything broken in just a few minutes. I just purchased a brand new Hayward Super Pump 1.5HP for my pool that is being renovated. Stackable Rose Gold Wedding Bands, Hi Pat, good question you can continue to use the IG pump, no problem. Flipped the timer on, water shot up about 10 feet and went all over me and the timer and the breaker blew. The pipe from the pump is connected to the valve in the port labeled PUMP and the pipe returning to the pool connects to the port labeled RETURN. Maybe you could just wire the pump directly to the breaker? Spray shaving cream around all of these areas and run pump with the vac connected, to see if you can see the cream being sucked in, in these areas. Weve not had this issue the past 2 years (we bought the house 2 years ago). Dec 14, 2021. "contentUrl": "https://x1.adis.ws/v1/media/graphics/i/lesl/its-logo-wide",
Drying off the terminal board may help, by removing the rear cover. When I then switch the pump breaker off and then back on again it springs into life (every time). IDXL2DB1930. I dont think I have any air or water leaks. The pump is 18 yrs. If you find out, I would check the owners manual for information related to your symptoms. I next realized the shaft (impellers) was frozen, and was able to free it up so it now spins smoothly. What do you suggest? Any idea what the problem could be? Do you think the motor is fried as a result of no water running thru? Please advise. please update your current version of Internet Explorer or try using a different browser. Please advise. Check the breaker inside the house, make sure its not tripped. Hi Wade, check the switches in the rear of the motor, the stationary switch, located at 6 oclock, and the centrifugal switch, located dead center. Shut off the valves or plug the skimmer and return, so you can keep the water in the pool while you get it sealed up. Could be a short in the wiring that could be tested with an Ohm meter, for resistance. I tried to prime the pump but it still doesnt kick over to cycle anything. Turn on the Drain King to pressurize all the way up to the pump, or to the filter valve, and whatever you see leaking water thats your air leak. Seems impeller is not turning, does it turn both ways or one way? I just dont know when it was purchased or how to even find out from the previous owners. "author": {
The water does not flow when the pump is turned on. Any idea why this might be happening? The 2 bolts connecting it to the platform just turn and turn and go nowhere. When starting up when the pump gets to 75% almost pushing the air out the pump starts to pulse with a click in the motor like the click you hear when a motor starts up. Hi, could be that the capacitor has worn out. Thank you. I did find the black power wire lose on the pump when checking the wire connections, so I reconnected it but to no avail. After 30 seconds it overheats and shuts down. I was just wondering if you thought that could be the issue unless it could be something else. Hi Jeanna, most of those slide from 230 to 115, but some do have to be unplugged and replugged. From the Hayward Ecostar Owners Manual: the Heat Sink Overheated error indicates that the heatsink on the bottom of the drive has overheated. We have a Hayward 1.5 lx. The motor spins CCW? It appeared that I couldve pulled them right off if I tried. I hooked everything up, and Im getting a lot of air returning into the pool. voltage reachs the stationary switch. Display seems to be reading correctly and shows the cell is not generating. If the control is not in lockout and senses that the igniter circuit is open when the blower is running the control will turn off the blower and go into lockout. If thats not the issue, is the pump sized correctly for the filter, and not under/over sized? I turned it on and it ran fine for about one hour. The Tristar VS would be a good choice and easy to plumb, since its the same pump. Remove and replace the two seal halves, in the same orientation as removed, spring half slides over impeller stem, donut half is pushed into seal plate. If the blower prover switch opens during the postpurge cycle (heater is not firing) the control will display the error code. If the shaft is free turning, but the pump does not turn on, check power connections. Motor running very hot, almost like in a bind. A wire connected to the terminal board may be loose or burnt. it continues to cycle this way. Otherwise it runs all the time or if you try to turn it on/off daily, but youre bound to be unavailable or maybe forget from time to time, I have a super pump and a salt water pool. 3 things are key, 1. High water flow (>125 gpm) into the heater. Excessive voltage or amps can cause the problem. Please consider. I spent 1 hour one one bolt alone. that sounds like loose wires, or broken wires. Approx. I would recommend getting a plug-in timeclock so you dont need to plug/unplug it all the time. Air can also be drawn into the pump from leaky suction side valves (skimmer or main drain). If I leave it plugged in then it stays hot, but if I unplug it then it cools off and itll work till it overheats again. Most pump breakers are not GFI, it might not trip if it is a regular non-GFI. Hard pumping can also cause a pump to overheat, but not usually. Missing push-pull valve o-rings, DE powder getting inside of the grids however thats something notable and the fact that it only does it on Low Speed, also unique. When I try to turn the pump back on, it only hums. I checked valves inside pump, and new o ring was installed. Hi Lou, I call that surging, and when a pump does that, and the water level (in the pool) is good, and a stuck skimmer weir is not causing the problem, I would check for an air leak in front of the pump a small void before the impeller that is pulling air in. Its a good piece of troubleshooting. I dont really know if my pump can be repaired or if the only solution is buying a new pump so soon. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED. If your salt system is hardwired, variations in voltage could cause the controller to go a little haywire. Any help,appreciated. I checked the possible issues that you mentioned hereno drain plugs on the systemdraining pool is done through the filter via a valve that is after the filter (Perflex). Or it could be a bad breaker, but usually not. If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T. Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch. My pump was tripping the breaker after about three minutes (consistently when I reset the breaker and turned on the pump, same thing). It makes humming sound 1-2 times before starting. Leaks can also come from loose drain plugs, or loose bolts on the seal plate, connecting the motor to the pump. Reattach capacitor, replace rear cover and test motor again. What are the amp and volt readings for the new cell? Camfrog Pro Extreme Atau Gold - Camfrog Indonesia. Came out tonight and flipped the switch and pump started. We had a pool built in FL in Aug 2018 with variable speed Hayward TriStar pump. I tried starting again one morning but the pump wont start. It could possibly be a bad cord, or a bad outlet, or loose wires on pump or outlet. I think the problem is a nick in the face of the salt cell that the unions o-ring seals against, but I cant feel anything there so its not like a giant burr or anything. Now there is no water running from the pool to the motor basket. I assume assy A motor is just bad. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and youre definitely not alone. This time around I purchased the t-3 cell model since my pool is below 15k gallons. After that, putting it to filter (following the backwash) ramps the flow to full strength until the gradual decline cycle starts again. It can also be a bad outlet, and if older than 20 yrs, it could be the breaker too. But the clicking, that sounds like a centrifugal switch, on the rear of the shaft, which could be a voltage issue? Hi Douglas, it could be the capacitor, if youre lucky. You may be able to remove the basket and reach thru the volute to the eye of the impeller, and may be able to feel debris. We have a few of them, but maybe not the correct one for your motor, replace with the exact same MFD number, printed on the cap. We dont have mechanical time clocksit is all digital. The early revisions dont work with the TCELL5 or TCELL9. At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell. This is more of an indicator light than anything else. I dont want to assume but I am guessing the pump was just going bad, thus leaking voltage in the pool. I would also check all the wire connections (power off) to be sure they are tight, on the breaker and on the time clock, and also inspect for insect infestation, or lizards, mice, etc. The mechanical shaft seal sits behind the impeller, and prevent water from leaking out along the motor shaft. I sent a sample to the store and my salt level is 3400 and the reading shown is 4300. Also look for loose wires or corrosion (stored next to chlorine tabs during winter?) I took off the cover to see the circuit board and all looks ok but then it started coming on and off randomly while I was standing there. Hi, it is either an air leak (a non-issue if installed below water level), or the suction pipes are too small for the pump size, or the hose may be collapsing inward under pressure. I dont think it ran dry, if the pump outlet hose came loose (not the inlet?). Hi, if the switch wont flip to on, the timer tripper could be right at the point where it is about to trip, making it hard to turn to on. If I prime the pump and turn it on it runs fine but when I turn it off and let it set for a few minutes you can hear it cheering then the water in the pump evacuates and there appears to be some water coming from the bottom of the pump. Hello Davy, you just saved me a few hundred bucks. A hum sound is usually associated with a bad capacitor (motor rear, 9 oclock), however the capacitor is a battery that is only used on start-up, and is released within a second of start-up, but still could be related. Not normal, but cant see a reason why that would cause the seal to fail. It now trips the breaker whenever i try to turn it back on. And that the top gasket seats well into the groove in the filter body before putting the lid on. It looks simple to replace, but I cant even get the old one off the ground! What do you think? Please help! Tim, all I can think of is maybe the pump is not self-priming pump? {Thinking it could be the timer motor) Problem still the same. The pump is currently configured for 115v. If the pump runs air tight, but slowly drains out over an hour or so, that is usually a pressure side (after the impeller) air leak. Hi Mike, after backwashing a DE filter, you need to add DE filter powder again. Possibly a bad breaker, they do wear out after 20 yrs or so. Inspect the pipe/union connections on the suction side for loose connections or damaged pipes. 1. check that the pump impeller and shaft are spinning freely. https://www.instagram.com/inyopools/JOIN our circle on GOOGLE+ https://plus.google.com/+Inyopools/postsAs with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune ups are needed from time to time. After installing the new pump, priming it, it started running as normal, after a short time the new pump shut down and was very hot. Maybe the transformer is not functioning properly? If youre correct that theres a problem with the internal bypass, what should I do? If stuck from rust build-up, move the capacitor (located at 9 oclock) and/or the thermal regulator (located at 12 oclock), out of the way, so that you can fit a 7/16 open end wrench on the slotted part of the shaft, behind the centrifugal switch that is screwed onto the end of the shaft. We only use the pump in the summer months, since we live in Canada. If not, you should cut out the fitting and replace, smearing on some Blue RTV sealant, and then wrapping the threads completely in 3-4 layers of Teflon tape before screwing it into the pump. If your pump has an open bracket (where you can see the motor shaft), you can grab the shaft with your fingers or straight pliers, to break any rust. Impeller replacement is only ever really needed for breakage or other severe damage, so if it aint broke. Remove the filter cartridge to see if it continues. Not it says drivererror pump stalled. With the pump off, remove the basket and reach your hand back into the eye of the impeller. Hi Rob, If the pump is the same exact model and horsepower, it sounds like either; 1). The pump is working great but concerned about the hot cord. how to watch past broadcasts on twitch. Hi Davy, No reset on the pump motor, but a little water on the wiring, and it will pop a GFI outlet. Usually however, a howling or moaning sound from the pool heater, is low water flow. Check the wiring of the pump cord, comparing to the wiring diagram printed on the motor, to be sure that they are connected properly, should be wired for 115V (not 230V). Is the replaced pump and motor problem? Do we need a new pump or can the electrical cord be replaced? I also replaced the seals. "image": {
3. loose pipe coming into pump, drawing air around fitting threads what do you think the hum could be? If very clogged, you can usually tell, because debris will float out and you can grab some of it with your fingertips or with pliers. Sometimes I need to backwash and rinse before the water seems to get going enough to actually circulate, then Im able to switch to filter and it works. If it is on low it works properly. No luck. If they are within range, replace the drive. 14mm Magnetic Spark Plug Socket, I am trying to run power under ground in conduit and would like to know what size wire to run. I would say you are likely needing a new motor, and pump. The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type. Today two years later, same company opened pool,pump stuck and want to install another 3400vsp for $1330. Hi David, spilling water on the motor is no problem, they do fine outside in the rain (flooding is a different story) Have you checked the GFCI test button on the outlet? My BBQ grill does the same thing, lol. Hi Davy! Step 2: Select your product type. If you can determine where the sound is coming from (motor or controller), that will help narrow it down. The process, for changing a hayward pump seal is: 1. Hi, like some of the other comments, when a pump basket doesnt fully fill with water, doesnt fully catch prime the first thing is to rule out an Air Leak, on the suction side. },
I needed to rotate the housing pump but for some reason the screws dont seem to b lined up. Flex pipe used on skimmers can eventually narrow and crimp, leaving a small opening that clogs easily.